Size: Male red eye tree frogs average about 2 to 2½ inches (51 - 64 mm) snout-vent length. Females average 2½ to 3 inches (64mm - 76 mm) snout-vent length.
General appearance: All red eye tree frogs have their signature red eyes with vertical pupils and a green back and a creamy white belly. Some red eye tree frogs have white spots on their back as well. The feet are yellow to orange in color. Color and size can vary depending on the geographic location the frog comes from. Red eye tree frogs from the northern part of the range tend to be slightly smaller with blue display flanks while specimens from the southern part of the range tend to be larger but have less colorful display flanks.
Enclosure: Generally speaking, enclosures should be at least 10-gallons in size for a pair of red eye tree frogs. A good rule is to allow 5 gallons per frog kept. Cage tops should be half glass and half screen to help keep humidity levels higher. If possible try to use enclosures that are taller to allow the red eye tree frogs places to climb and room for foliage.
Temperature: Red eye tree frogs do best at temperature ranges of 60° - 85° F (15° - 30° C), though long periods of time at their temperature extremes can be unhealthy for the animals. They do well with average daytime temperatures of about 75°- 80° F (24° - 27° C) and nighttime temperatures of 70°- 75° F (21° - 24° C).
Heat/Light: Usually red eye tree frogs do well at room temperature, but if needed, an under-tank heater, low wattage incandescent bulb, or ceramic emitters can be used to raise the temperature of the enclosure. In summer months steps need to be taken to keep the enclosure cool, such as to make sure the enclosure is not in direct sunlight and to circulate the air in the room with a fan or open window. UV light has not been proven to be helpful or harmful to these animals but if your enclosure contains live plants you should provide some light for the plants. A 12-hour photoperiod should be provided and can be achieved by using a timer.
Substrate: The substrate provided should be able to help hold higher humidity levels. A layer of 3 to 5 inches (76 - 127 mm) of substrate such as orchid bark or potting soil and sphagnum moss can be used. If desired aquarium gravel can be used on the bottom level for drainage.
Environment: Because red eye tree frogs come from a tropical rain forest, a higher humidity level of 60% to 70% is a must. Higher humidity levels can be maintained by regular mistings, appropriate substrate, and partially cover the cage top. If water droplets begin to form on the glass, the humidity is probably too high. Red eye tree frogs also love to climb on broad-leaf plants such as Philodendron, Anthurium, and Mongtera species.
Diet: Like may amphibians, red eye tree frogs are insectivorous. Insects such as crickets, flies, fruit flies, and just about anything smaller than their mouth. Crickets are usually the easiest and most readily available food supply. When feed crickets it is important to gut load the crickets with a good diet to provide the best nutrition for your frog. Fresh water should be provided in a dish for the frogs because they will rehydrate themselves by soaking in the disk. They will often drink from the water accumulated on the plants from misting as well.
Maintenance: It is important to mist red eye tree frogs on a regular basis. Depending on your local environment, cage setup, and substrate you may have to mist as often as daily to only two to tree times a week. Owners should also be wary of unfiltered tap water as it may contain substances harmful to your frogs. It is best to use filtered and dechlorinated water for misting and drinking. The enclosure should be spot cleaned as needed and should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly to prevent mold from growing in the substrate. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your frogs or any cage accessories.